So Lilly has been a real trooper through the quarantine, but she is ready to get back to school. She had her exit Covid test and got her negative result, so the only thing now is to wait until all 14 days have passed. Time needs to speed up!
Even though Mt Fuji is only 43 miles away, we can't always see it. Most days there is cloud cover or haze and you can't see it at all. Then somedays - it is HUGE. I particularly like to look at it at sunset. Sometimes there are flat pancake-looking clouds that seem to sit on top of Fuji. The internet tells me these are called Lenticular clouds and they are made of colder denser air and they seem to hover over extinct volcanoes. On this day the pancake cloud looked more like a ring. My iPhone camera does not do the sight justice! I need to start driving around with my old fashioned digital camera in the car with me!
This next part has nothing to do with Japan, it is just something that bothers me. We got a new printer when we moved here because somehow the power cord to our old printer got lost in the move. It took me awhile to find a new cord for it so we bought this one figuring two printers are better than one right? Well this printer hates me. Almost every day I walk into the kitchen to find this on the floor. Not only is it spitting out paper, it has gibberish printed on the paper so no one will use it. ARGH!! I have of course consulted the Google and was instructed to update my software, which I have faithfully done. It still spits out paper, not as much and not as often, but it still happens. Like a belching paper volcano.
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The birthday surprise extravaganza required support from the whole family. Lucy's job was to distract Lilly, while Jim persuaded her to come outside. Ben then drove the Mini around the corner while I stood by to film it all. First we placed the tiny Mini model in the driveway where I usually park, and we placed a big bow on top. Jim told the girls to come on out so we could head to dinner. Lilly came outside and we yelled "HAPPY BIRTHDAY! Hope you like your Mini!" with reference to the tiny mini. She was like "ha ha ha very funny you guys" until Ben drove around the side of the house in the real Mini. Needless to say, Lilly was over the moon!! Yes - I know what you are thinking - Ben drove - he is obsessed with driving and we live on a small court with 3 other houses, so we thought it would be fine.
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| We actually were going to dinner - Sushi - Lilly's favorite! |
Now we come to the part where we say how fast the years have gone and can't believe she is 16. Where did our baby go? All those things are valid and we did say them but now all we can think of is when is she going to get her permit so she can start driving!!
Every weekend we have the same fight with the kids. We say we want to go see something in this amazing country and they push back and say they don't want to/can't go. Occasionally we just make them go anyway. This weekend was one of those weekends. We got them in the car for a day trip to Nikko, a stunningly beautiful destination with one of the most famous and elaborate Buddhist shrines on the planet. We had wanted to spend the night, but the negotiations broke down and all parties left the house wanting more and getting less.
First stop was Kegon Falls. It is ranked as one of Japan's three most beautiful falls especially in autumn when the leaves change. We were just past the peak of colors, but the surrounding country side was still impressive. Apparently the falls are also beautiful in the winter when frozen almost completely solid! The road leading up to the falls is also pretty famous .... for 30 jaw-dropping 30 switchbacks. We were feeling that by the end.
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| It is almost 100m tall! |
After the Falls, we headed into Nikko to check out the Toshogu Shrine, which has been described as one of the most important religious sites in Japan. It is the final resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu who was the samurai ruler who united Japan in the early 1600s. The place is super impressive and there is lots to see, but I will just give you the highlights.
First up is the Yonmeimon gate which has over 500 intricate carvings and is considered to be one of the most beautiful gates in Japan and has been designated as a National Treasure. We also saw the Three Wise Monkeys carving. It is believed to be the birthplace of the saying "Hear No Evil, Speak No Evil, and See No Evil."
We also saw the Shinkyo Bridge. It is a sacred bridge and considered to be in the top three in the country. However it was closed. We weren't sure if it was closed due to Covid or if they were doing repairs but regardless we weren't allowed to walk across it. We made it back home just under the agreed-upon hour and the kids reluctantly agreed it had been worth going so we are chalking it up as a win!

Before you can even turn around it is Thanksgiving! We decided we were going to go somewhere via train for the long weekend and ultimately picked Hakuba, which is in the mountains near Nagano. After extensive research Jim booked us on the Shinkansen (Bullet train) out of Tokyo to Nagano. But to get to it we had to take the train from our station in Fussa to Tokyo and then once we got to Nagano we boarded a bus for the rest of the trip. All the trains in Japan are nice and clean and quiet. The Shinkansen is even nicer if you can imagine that. It doesn't feel like you are going that fast, but you are! We decided to use our backpacks for this trip since it was short and we would be on trains and buses. Nothing worse than dealing with a suitcase or duffel bag when you are maneuvering in tight quarters.
Once on the train we decided to change up our itinerary a bit and check out Snow Monkey Park about 30 minutes north east of Nagano before heading over to Hakuba. Of course there is no snow yet, but the monkeys are there year-round so we decided to give it a shot. The bus stop for Snow Monkey Park is about a half a mile from the park and once you get to the park it is another 1-mile walk on a mountain trail to get to the actual monkeys. I can't imagine doing this with snow and ice on the ground - sounds brutal. The monkeys are all just lying around in heaps grooming each other. Every five minutes or so a fight breaks out and at least two or three monkeys take off running through the crowds screaming at the top of their lungs. It reminded me of an elementary school at lunch recess. Some monkeys were lounging by pool but only a few dipped their toes in. One monkey, who apparently lost a bet, reluctantly got in, but he didn't stay long. All in all we enjoyed it and it's crazy to be so close to monkeys - they were literally running between our legs. But I am not sure if we got the whole snow monkey experience without the presence of actual snow.
On the way back down to the bus stop, we grabbed some hot chocolate and some snacks at a little cafe. Ben also got an ice cream (despite the freezing temperatures) while the girls got a pastry. It was nice to sit and warm up before the cold walk back to the bus stop.
We made it back to the train station in time to grab something to eat (remember - this was Thanksgiving Day) before boarding our bus to Hakuba. Ben was all excited because there was pizza on the menu. He ordered the cheese pizza. Or what he thought was a cheese pizza. Unfortunately for him (and ultimately me) his cheese pizza also had lots of tiny little fish on it. So Ben ate my chicken and I picked off the fish and had ate his pizza. It wasn't gross, but I won't be eating it again. Not quite the Thanksgiving dinner any of us thought we would be having. Reminded us of our Christmas Dinners at Waffle House when traveling to see family back in the day ...
We finally got to Hakuba and to our awesome Airbnb after a relatively short brisk walk in the early evening. There was the usual fight over who will have to sleep on the couch and Ben pulled the short straw this time. Lucy has to do it tomorrow when we move to a nearby hotel. We got up the next day, stashed our packs at the new hotel and hit the streets to see what we could see. One of the biggest attractions in Hakuba is the site of the 1998 Nagano Olympic Torch and Flame as well as the Ski Jump venue. It is still used today on the World Ski Jump circuit. We took a self-guided tour and the kids posed on the podium. You could not pay me enough money to ever willingly ski down the ski jump. It is just as terrifying up close as it is on TV.
We grabbed lunch at a ramen place and before we all went in different directions Jim and I decided to put our feet in the public bath. I did not want to leave! The water felt so nice. Perfect temperature. Hakuba was essentially empty! We passed very few other people, much less tourists. Most of the businesses were gearing up for the ski season. Hard to believe that in a month this place will be covered with several meters of snow!
For dinner we hit up a Korean BBQ joint. The kids are always a tad skeptical of our ability to order what we think we want and then to cook it. Jim on the other hand is completely in his element! Now this was the Thanksgiving Dinner we were looking for (Japan style).
We made it back to Fussa in one piece and at a decent hour. We have a day to reset before the kids have to go back to school, which is always nice. The next morning we awoke to find that Kringle had shown up. It is nice to know that elves have to follow the same quarantine guidelines as the rest of us. At last, something good has come out of Covid.
























































